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Perth Breakfast & Brunch: Little Donkey Corner, Tuart Hill

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Kate EmeryThe West Australian
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Social media has a lot to answer for. Not just the toll on mental health, nor hours lost to scrolling, but in a modern tendency among brunch venues to invent dishes for clicks. But sometimes, those dishes work.
Camera IconSocial media has a lot to answer for. Not just the toll on mental health, nor hours lost to scrolling, but in a modern tendency among brunch venues to invent dishes for clicks. But sometimes, those dishes work. Credit: Supplied

Social media has a lot to answer for.

Not (just) because of the toll it’s taken on our mental health.

Not (just) because of the hours we’ve lost to scrolling when we might have been saving lives or inventing cold fusion.

Social media also has blood — or syrup? — on its hands when it comes to the greatest meal of the day, brunch.

Such is the power of a viral brunch social media post that there’s a modern tendency among venues to cater for the clicks and dream up ever more ostentatious and bizarre offerings, not because they taste good but because they look great on the ‘gram.

Before I went to Little Donkey Corner, a popular Tuart Hill cafe, I had already mentally tried and convicted it of the crime of catering to social media, such was the popularity of its fairy floss-topped French toast.

Yes, the fairy floss-topped French toast is popular. Yes, it gets attention. And, yes, it should arguably come with a defibrillator on the side.

But because the cooking is good and the flavours surprisingly well balanced for a cavity on a plate, the dish actually works.

Little Donkey Corner.
Camera IconLittle Donkey Corner. Credit: Jackson Flindell/The West Australian

Since that first visit, years ago, Little Donkey Corner has won me over. And when I recently returned for the purposes of a review it was the savoury, decidedly less flashy dishes that won me over.

Chilli cheesy eggs is exactly what you’d expect from the name: gently scrambled eggs enlivened by the presence of mozzarella and feta. It might risk venturing into sickening territory if not for the slick of chilli oil and the addition of crispy shallots, which cut through the richness and make it something special.

Little Donkey Corner might just make my new favourite take on the smashed avo: theirs comes with stracciatella and a wobbly poached egg on top. The presence of a warm tomato salsa and a hint of garlic takes it well beyond the half avo forked onto Wonder White that I might whip up at home.

Those inclined towards greed must know it comes with just one piece of toast but, as a greedy so-and-so myself, it filled me up.

Little Donkey Corner also does burgers and brekkie rolls as part of its all-day brunch menu and the mix seems to be working: it’s busy, even on a weekday, and not everyone there has their phones out so I don’t think the French toast is to blame.

The chilli cheesy eggs might not be as ‘grammable as the fairy floss toast, but they are delicious.
Camera IconThe chilli cheesy eggs might not be as ‘grammable as the fairy floss toast, but they are delicious. Credit: Jackson Flindell/The West Australian

Coffee, tea and smoothies are all great and there’s a display cabinet full of sweet cakes and biscuits I’ve never quite managed to leave room for. One day, perhaps.

French toast is still on the menu, complete with its little hat of fairy floss.

It’s even been joined, these days, by another dish that sounds primed for a timeline near you: hot chocolate waffles, which come with whipped cream, mini marshmallows, chocolate ganache and, presumably, a stern warning from your doctor. Full disclosure: I haven’t tried it, mostly because I’m scared it’ll be delicious and I need another vice like I need another social media platform in my life.

Hospitality is no place to get rich, for most people, and I can’t begrudge any venue that uses social media to help boost its bottom line.

But Little Donkey Corner, with its humble exterior, lovely staff and knockout cooking, is much more than an Instagram dish or two. It is, just quietly, a bit of a keeper.

The verdict: 16.5/20

Come for the fairy floss, stay for the quality cooking.

Little Donkey Corner

4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill

OPEN Monday–Friday 6.30am-2.30pm, Saturday–Sunday 7.30am-2.30pm

CONTACT littledonkeycorner.com

BOOKINGS Yes

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